Glossary

Parts of the Shoe

Achilles Notch

A notched groove in the back of the heel collar, which helps to assure a snug fit at the heel without irritation.

Ankle Strap

A strap attached to the rear of the shoe that encircles the ankle. Usually features an adjustable buckle or elastic.

Ankle Wrap

Straps that are meant to be wrapped and tied around the ankle for a stylish accent.

Arch

Point halfway between the ball of the foot (area where foot touches the ground) and the heel.

Bellows Tongue

The tongue of a shoe that is attached to the sides as well as the top.

Break

The crease that occurs from frequent wear across the vamp of the shoe.

Cap Toe

Also called a tip, it is a leather overlay that covers the toe of a shoe and comes in various shapes and styles.

Cemented Construction

The manner in which the upper of a shoe is joined to the sole with cement instead of stitching, creating a lighter shoe.

Circumference

The measurement around the widest part of the boot shaft.

Cone Heel

Tapered heel with the widest point touching the sole.

Collar

A piece of material attached to the shoe opening, which can be cushioned for added comfort.

Contoured Footbed

An easily shaped, foot-molding shoe insole.

Counter

A piece of rigid material used to maintain the shape of a shoe; it is put between the lining and upper at the shoe's heel.

Cushioning

Padding on the sole of a shoe to provide comfort and shock absorption and protect joints against high-impact activities.

Forefoot

The place on the foot located between the toes and the ball.

Heel

The bottom, rear-most area of the shoe that supports the heel of the foot. Can vary in height for fashion or practical purposes.

Heel Height

Measured in a vertical line from where the sole meets the heel down to the floor, heel height is expressed in increments of 1/8 of an inch.

Heel Seat

The part of the shoe where the heel joins the sole, located just below the heel of the foot.

Insole

The internal bottom of the shoe which sits directly beneath the foot. Many shoes have removable and replaceable insoles, and extra insoles can often be added for comfort or health reasons (to control the shape, moisture, or smell of the shoe).

Instep

The part of the foot located between the toes and the ankle, and the top front area on a shoe.

Kitten Heel

A lsmall heel, usually shorter than 5cm.

Lining

The fabric, leather, or synthetic material that makes up the inside of a shoe.

Loafer

A slip-on-style shoe, with no clasps or laces.

Lucite

Used in the construction of dress shoes, this is a type of hard, translucent plastic.

Lift

A layer of leather board or leather that, with other layers, makes up a heel.

Lug Sole

A heavy rubber sole with a patterned sole for traction.

Midsole

Material that is layered between the insole and the outsole of many shoes for the purpose of absorbing shock. Many athletic and outdoor shoes have specially designed midsoles to help offset pressure from running or other activities. Some soles have no midsole at all..

Moc Toe

Originating on moccasins, this is a kind of stitched toe design.

Negative Heel

A type of comfort shoe feature, with a lowered heel footbed.

Outsole

The portion of the shoe that is in direct contact with the ground. The outsole may comprise a single piece, or may comprise separate pieces of different materials. The outsole can contain specialised material for traction or shape and may be hard or soft depending on the type of shoe.

Orthotic

An insole designed to cushion and support the foot.

Overlay

A layer of material placed as detailing on a shoe.

Pitch

The angle where the sole meets the back part of the shoe heel. High-heeled shoes typically have a pitch at a larger angle for stability.

Quarter

The back part of a shoe, meeting at the back seam and covering the sides and heel.

Quarter Panel

The shoe sides from the toe to the heel.

Quarter Lining

The leather or fabric rear lining of the shoe.

Rim

Where the foot enters the shoe; also called collar or topline.

Sculpted Heel

A high-heel shoe style made from one piece of material, often plastic.

Shaft

Piece of a boot that covers the ankle and forms a circumference around the leg. May vary from ankle- to thigh-high.

Shaft Height

This is measured from the top of the boot shaft to the inside seam where the sole meets the instep.

Siped Sole

An outsole found on boat shoes that has grooves to disperse water.

Snip Toe

A square and tapered toe type.

Sole

The bottom of the shoe.

Stacked Heel

A heel made up of stacked layers.

Tip

An extra leather piece on top of the shoe toe, which comes in various shapes.

Toe Ridge

A supportive horizontal ridge on the footbed of some shoes and sandals.

Tongue

The strip of material attached to the vamp and leading to the shoe's throat.

Upper or Vamp

The upper material of a shoe that holds it to the foot of the wearer.

Width

Shoe width, measured in 1/6-inch increments, is expressed in letters, such as AAA, AA, D, EE, etc.. It is measured at the ball of the foot.

Types of Shoes

Approach Shoe

A rock climbers' shoe with a grip sole to provide traction along the path to the climbing zone.

Athleisure Shoe

A cross between athletic and leisure shoes, these sneakers are hip and casual street wear.

Athletic Shoe

Footwear for specific athletic performance, such as running, tennis, basketball, cross-training, soccer, etc.

Balmoral Shoe

A front-laced shoe with a V-shaped panel that crosses the foot.

Bicycle Toe

Named for its resemblance to bicycle shoes, it is a type of toe that has two straight lines of stitching.

Blucher Toe

A shoe toe featuring a turned stitch border that looks like a reverse apron toe.

Boat Shoe

Originally intended to be worn on a boat deck, this classic, casual shoe, often leather, has nonslip soles and side lacing.

Boot

Footwear thatcovers at least the toe and ankle, and can extend to the knee or beyond.

Bootie

A shoe that resembles a boot in style but is not as high - generally hitting at the ankle or below.

Brogue

Proper, often formal, low-heeled shoe with punching detail or wingtip toe-cap pattern.

Chelsea Boot

A pull-on boot with elastic sides, usually ankle-height.

Chukka Boot

A lace-up, typically ankle-height boot style featuring a plain toe.

Cleat

Athletic shoes featuring spikes or nubs on the sole for greater traction; used in soccer, baseball, or golf.

Clog

Slip-on shoe with covered toe and foot area, but with exposed or open heel.

Court

Medium- to high-heeled shoe for women usually with a low-cut front. Heel and toe shape can vary depending on current trend.

Cross-Trainer

Shoes meant for a variety of cross-training exercises, such as running and aerobics.

Demi Boot

A boot style with a shaft that goes no higher than the ankle.

Derby

Usually leather, and styled with open lacing. The tongue of the shoe is usually made from the same piece of material as the vamp.

D'Orsay

Shoe with cutaway in-step to reveal the arch of the foot. Toe and heel are usually covered.

Driving Shoe

A slip-on moccasin-style shoe, well suited for driving. They have gripping soles and flexible outsoles.

Espadrille

Flat or wedge platform sandals with natural or synthetic fibre soles.

Engineer Boot

A pull-on work-style boot with straps on the top and instep.

Fisherman Sandal

A sandal type characteriSed by a closed toe and stitched or woven vertical and horizontal straps.

Fitness Shoes

Athletic shoes that are specially suited for working out, and are suitable for a variety of activities.

Flat

Shoe with little or non-existent heel. Sometimes referred to as a ballet flat.

Flat Foot

A collapsed foot arch, causing the whole foot bottom to touch the ground.

Flip-flop

Flat sandal that is secured loosely to the foot by a thong between the first and second toes.

Harness boot

A boot style featuring heel and instep straps, often with a ring detail.

Huarache

Originally from Central America, this sandal type is flat with an upper of woven leather.

Gardening clog

A shoe type well suited for gardening, it is rubber, waterproof, and often backless.

Gait control

A system used in athletic shoes to control the foot motion in order to prevent injury or strain.

Ghillie

A shoe style featuring laces that pass through leather or fabric loops on the front of the shoe.

Jelly shoe

Sandal or flat made of PVC plastic that is clear or brightly colored. May contain glitter.

Loafer

Low, usually laceless slip-on shoe, often with tassels, fringe, or other decoration across the toe.

Light-hiking

Shoes well suited for day hikes; not recommended for long-distance backpacking or climbing.

Jodhpur boot

A slip-on, ankle-height boot with elastic sides, also known as a Chelsea boot.

Mary Jane

Shoe with buckle-strap across the instep and/or around the ankle.

Mersey boot

A type of dress boot with a raised heel and zippered side; also called Beatle boots.

Moccasin

Soft, flat shoe with vamp and upper usually constructed and stitched from one or two pieces. May have beading or ornamental stitching or detail.

Monk strap

A closed oxford-style shoe that has a side instep strap with a buckle instead of a front lace-up closure.

Motorcycle boot

Thick-soled, durable boots well suited for motorcycle riding.

Motion-control

Constructions in athletic shoes designed to control the amount of inward roll (pronation) of the foot.

Mule

A backless shoe.

Oxford

Shoe with enclosed lacing.

Peekaboo toe

A closed toe style with a small opening to reveal a bit of the toes.

Peep-toe

Cutaway at the front of the shoe to reveal the toes.

Penny-loafer

A slip-on shoe featuring a slot above the instep, big enough to hold a penny.

Pump (British meaning)

A type of athletic shoe with a canvas upper and rubber sole. Sometimes referred to as a plimsoll or tennis shoes.

Pump (North American meaning)

Medium- to high-heeled shoes for women usually with low-cut fronts. Heel and toe shape can vary depending on current trend.

Riding boot

A knee-height boot style with a low heel, intended for horse riding.

Running cushioning

Running shoes that feature supportive padding in the midsole and insole for shock absorption.

Running stability

Running shoes that feature stabilizing structure for maximum control of motion.

Running supportive cushioning

Running shoes that have both cushioning and stabilizing support.

Saddle oxford

An oxford-style shoe, often featuring a contrasting colored saddle overlay on the vamp.

Saddle shoes

Classic shoes featuring a contrasting coloured instep.

Safety shoes

A rugged shoe equipped with safety features, such as a steel toe, for use in industrial settings.

Sandal

Open-toed shoe with a sole that his held to the foot with straps.

Skateboarding/skate shoe

Flat-soled shoes for grip on skateboards. Usually heavily padded to protect wearer.

Slide

A slip-on shoe. May have both open back and toe.

Slingback:

Backless shoe, with the exception of a strap that goes around the heel or ankle.

Slipper

Soft slip-on footwear designed to be worn indoors.

Sneaker

A rubber-soled athletic shoe.

T-bar

Shoe with T-shaped vamp, created with an ankle strap and strip running vertically along the foot.

Stiletto

Slim heel which gradually gets slimmer toward the ground may range in height from just over 2.5 cm to 20 cm.

Thong

A sandal with a V-strap between the first and second toes that attaches to the sole.

Trail running

Running shoes with traction for off-road terrain as well as extra stability.

Trainer

An athletic-style shoe designed for a specific purpose. May also be called a sneaker.

Vegetarian shoes

Shoes constructed with synthetic materials and no leather.

Wedge

The heel is joined to the sole of the shoe, creating a triangular effect.

Wellington boot

Waterproof boot that often hits just below the wearer’s knee. Usually made of PVC. Can be referred to as wellies,rainboot or top boot.

Wingtip

A stitched toe cap shaped as a wing.

Material Types & General Terms

Antiquing

A type of leather finish that creates a contrasting, rubbed-off appearance.

Buckle

A clasp at the end of a length of material, used for fastening, or sometimes just for decoration.

Burnish

The polishing technique used to give a leather shoe an antiquing finish.

Calfskin

The soft, supple leather derived from the skin of young cows.

Crepe sole

A shoe sole with a texture similar to crepe paper.

Distressed

Material type that is made to look intentionally worn, scratched, or scuffed.

Degrade

An effect where colour fades gradually either to another shade or to white.

Ethylene Vinyl Acetate (EVA)

A heat-sensitive, easily shaped synthetic compound, used for cushioning outsoles.

Elastic gore

An elastic panel insert used to create stretch.

Embossed leather

A pattern or animal-skin design imprinted onto leather.

Eyelet

A hole to thread a lace through, often constructed with a grommet or metal ring.

Faux leather

Synthetic material, often polyurethane, made to resemble leather.

Finish

An application of polish to create the final surface look of a shoe, such as gloss or antiquing.

Foxing

Often found on canvas sneakers, it is the rubber strip that connects the sole and upper of a shoe.

Full-grain leather

Naturally textured leather..

Goatskin

Goat-hide leather.

Gore

Elastic panels on both sides of the vamp of a shoe, used to increase comfort and make shoes easier to put on and remove.

Grain

Naturally occurring surface pattern of leather.

Hidden gore

Covered by the shoe's tongue, this elastic panel is used to improve comfort.

Hide

Animal skin that is treated and used to make clothes, accessories and shoes.

Imitation leather

Any of a variety of synthetic materials meant to resemble leather.

Injection-molded construction

A mass-production method of constructing shoe soles where PVC or similar materials are melted and injected into a sole mold.

Kidskin

Young goat hide, which produces porous, supple leather.

Kiltie

A fringed tongue used decoratively over a shoe's vamp.

Lambskin

Young sheepskin leather.

Leather

The treated, tanned skin of an animal.

Lucite

A type of hard, translucent plastic.

Lycra/Neoprene

A soft, waterproof fabric and neoprene rubber blend, which can be used as a lining.

Microfibre

A tightly knit fabric frequently used in shoe construction.

Napa leather

A smooth, stretchy sheepskin leather.

Neoprene

A soft, waterproof blend of Spandex and rubber, often used as lining.

Nubuck

A smooth lightweight leather often used on shoe uppers.

Patent leather

A slick and shiny leather usually made from cow hide.

Pebble grain

A leather finish made to appear rough like pebbles.

Perforation

A decorative pattern of small holes along the trim of a shoe.

Pinking

A decorative saw-tooth edging along the trim of a shoe.

Piping

A thin leather strip along the seam of a shoe, used decoratively.

Polyurethane

A synthetic leather alternative that is lightweight and durable.

Ruched

Material that is pleated and with stitching details.

Scalloped

A kind of wavy-edged detailing.

Scotch-grain

A rough, heavy-looking embossed leather surface.

Shearling

Often used as a lining material for shoes, this is woolly sheepskin.

Sheepskin

The skin of sheep, sometimes including the wool.

Silicone

A slick polymeric material used for waterproofing.

Slouched

A shoe or boot with a design of gathered material.

Smooth leather

Leather without a rough surface grain.

Snakeskin

The scaly leather made from the skin of snakes.

Sock liner

The insole on which the foot rests within the shoe.

Spandex

A waterproof material often used as lining, which is made up of Spandex fabric and neoprene rubber.

Split leather

Leather made up of the lower layer of hide that is split from the grain.

Steel-toed

Found in industrial footwear, steel toes function to prevent work injuries.

Suede

Leather with a soft, nappy texture.

Sueded fabric

Fabric that has been made to simulate suede.

Synthetic material

Man-made materials produced to simulate leather.

Tanning

The conversion of raw skins into finished leather.

Tassel

A decorative element found on moccasins and loafers made of a rope and knot.

Thermoplastic Rubber (TPR)

A plastic material used in the injection-molding procedure.

Thermoplastic Urethane (TPU)

A plastic running-shoe support material for the middle foot.

Trend

A shoe's sole design, or how it becomes worn.

Vachetta leather:

A soft type of leather made from cows.

Vegetable tanned

A vegetable procedure for tanning leather, beneficial for people with tanning- chemical allergies.

Velcro

A hook-and-loop system of fastening straps on shoes.

Vinyl

A shiny plastic which can be used as a shoe coating, it is short for polyvinyl chloride.

Vulcanized rubber

A strong rubber that has been transformed from its raw state.

Waterproof leather

Specially treated shoes made to repel water.